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A Crêpe in Paris: Street Food with a Touch of Finesse at L’Avant Comptoir

March 8, 2014, 2:30 am
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Every time I come across a new discovery, I feel like I am the happiest man on earth.  The feeling of tasting some amazingly prepared street food from around the world is overwhelming… It was a cold Sunday in Paris and I felt like eating some crepes. I searched online for a good place that serves crepes and was led to L’Avant Comptoir. A simple place, that serves a simple selection of savory and sweet crepes on the sidewalk.
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L’Avant Comptoir is a branch of Le Comptoir a bistro next door. In L’Avant Comptoir, things are cooler and fresher where some accustomed clientele gather in masses in front of the bar. Facing the entrance, a tiny little space of 2sqm is where the crepes aficionados wait to be served.
This shoebox-size wine bar is just steps from the Odéon and run by bistro maestro Yves Camdeborde. Next door to his seminal restaurant Le Comptoir, this place sells crepes and sandwiches during the day and hors d’oeuvres to a raucous crowd at night. Basque and Béarnais-inspired nibbles include fried croquettes stuffed with from Eric Ospital’s renowned Iberian ham, a filling cod brandade, oxtail canapés with horseradish cream, and chicken hearts grilled with garlic and parsley. Plates of charcuterie are meant to be eaten (and shared) with the crocks of Bordier butter and gherkins that line the counter. No more than a dozen people can crowd into this place at a time and there are no chairs.
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One single man, yes one by himself does it all. He cuts the ham, prepares the crepes, toasts the sandwiches, cleans the pans, takes the money, serves drinks… I personally ordered five crepes for the group, which took him more than thirty minutes to prepare. So you can imagine the queue and waiting time. The line behind me decided to settle for some sandwiches – they seemed faster to make.
The formula is simple:
  • 2 ingredients and a soft drink 6€
  • 1 ingredient for 4€, any additional for 0,5€
Ingredients:
  • Emmental, eggs, raw ham, salad, smoked chicken, smoked turkey, sausage

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This is a street food joint, order, eat and leave. Don’t expect anything fancy…. But the ambiance is fresh and positive.
  • A little tiny shop where you order while standing behind the counter
  • One person prepares all the orders on one single pan, the other being of or broken
  • Generous and richly filled, one single crepe is a complete meal for two
  • Inside is the bar where drinks are served in a joyful ambiance
  • The restaurant on the other side is where you can sit and order from the menu calmly
  • A wall of white tiles is signed by customers notes covering it in black writings
  • Pending from the ceiling, rectangles of carton display each and every plate on the menu

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Looking at the clumsy man burn a crepe from here, smoke a sandwich from there or leave everything behind to go cut some slices of ham, I honestly thought I was not going to have lunch that day. It was excitement mixed with rage as hunger reached its highest peaks.
But the second I took the first bite from my crepe, I forgot about everything…
A crêpe or crepe is a type of very thin pancake, usually made from wheat flour (crêpes de Froment) or buckwheat flour (galettes). The word is of French origin, deriving from the Latin crispa, meaning “curled”. While crêpes are often associated with Brittany, a region in the northwest of France, their consumption is widespread inFrance, Belgium, Quebec and many parts of Europe. Crêpes are served with a variety of fillings, from the most simple with only sugar to flambéed crêpes Suzette or elaborate savoury galettes.
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At L’Avant Comptoir, the savory dough is different from the sweet one, just like it should be everywhere. Crêpe de Sarrasin is used to make savory ones, brown and crunchy dough; while the sweet crepes dough ones is white, sweet and thick. To have a complete idea and enjoy my meal to the maximum, I ordered cheese, ham and eggs and another chocolate, banana and coconut…

The savory crepe is like no other I’ve had to date. Filled with quantities for two or more, each bite is a journey of flavors and textures. Ham is the finest local ones cut by hand on spot; cheese is a mix of emmental from a top quality and an egg to top it all in style. As for the dough, thicker than usual, it has a slight crunch and crumbles pleasantly and breaks in harmony under your teeth – a real flavor that blends perfectly with the mix. I loved how no sweetness whatsoever is felt.

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The sweet crepe is a trip to heaven. Forget about those Nutella filled crepes that have the same over saturated sweetness. First of all, the dough is unique and different. Thicker than usual, and not chewy, it has an interesting texture that absorbs the chocolate making you feel like your eating a cake. The chocolate on another hand is homemade with no preservatives and sweetened additives -purity of dark chocolate caresses your palate with every bite. Add to that the smoothness of the banana and the crispness of the coconuts… Just imagine! It is heaven!

At L’Avant Comptoir the best ingredients are used and generously added for 4€. It’s amazing, especially when compared to the crappy ones you have for 10€ in more tourist spots.

Just a few meters away from the Odeon Metro Station, L’Avant Comptoir is a discovery not to be missed.
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Hajj Nasr Sandwiches… Doesn’t Seem to be Closing Down Anytime Soon

March 23, 2014, 11:05 am
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Many of you may know Hajj Nasr, one of the smallest sandwhicherias in Lebanon. You must have come across it, even if you haven’t actually tried it. Nestled in the heart of Achrafieh’s busy streets, Hajj Nasr, known for his abrupt character, welcomes people who wait in line for their turn to grab whatever is left in the kitchen to make. The last time I came here was in August, and the news back then was that the place was closing down. We are half way through the next year and I was happy to see that the little sandwich spot was still open… A character worth meeting indeed…

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Facing AiZone at ABC Achrafieh’s Mall, Hajj Nasr, the famous Hajj Nasr has been rolling meat and poultry sandwiches since 1975 in this small shop. At the very end is a counter where Mr. Hajj Nasr makes his famous sandwiches at the speed of light, starting at four in the morning onwards until nothing is left to be sold.

It was 11:30am when I arrived to this tiny place, where dozens of accustomed customers were already waiting in line, just craving for a sandwich. Anything that is available is fine as long as Hajj Nasr makes it: Meat, chicken, eggs, liver, brains… And it wasn’t lunchtime yet.

I was amazed. Grabbing my phone, Hajj Nasr, looked at the many people packed inside his shop and said out loud, “I feel like an animal behind bars in the zoo, posing in front of people taking pictures of me.” And he continued rolling his sandwiches while everyone turned to look at me as they were pushing me away with their eyes. I was waisting his time, and they were hungry.

Approaching the counter, and trying to take even more photos, he slowed down, looked at me and said: “Don’t tell me that you are the NoGarlicNoOnions guy! No! Please no! Hundreds have been coming here after you wrote your article and now that they forgot about me, you are reminding them of my existence? I beg you to leave.” In a funny sarcastic way, Hajj Nasr makes everyone smile. He is known for his way of talking, not scared of anything or anyone. Feeding the hungry is his main concern, and life turns around that.

I tried to avoid him asking me what I wanted to eat while I meticulously recorded in my head his funny expressions; “Dawle baddik kafta?” Dawle (government), looking at two policemen. Two policemen were here to simply eat while he expressed out loud all his feelings about the country and its politics. And he continued saying: “Kele ya dawdle, kele, sorte tekemche siyarat mfakhakhe, halla2?” (I heard you’re capturing explosive cars nowadays? lol)

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This man throws jokes without even smiling or showing his teeth. Funny moments can be spent in here while he shouts and rolls one sandwich after the other at the speed of light. “Chou, wayna el madame? Akalet wou fallet?“. “Nchallah” is used every now and then. Nchallah means yes and no or anything that can close a long sentence. Prepare to hear it a lot.

Now came my turn: “Chou ba3tik, tatfell?”. He eagerly wanted me to leave… he hates photos. Asking innocently what was left on the menu, he changed his tone and said: “What is this question? Do you want one sandwich of everything? You think you can taste all? Just ask and I’ll give you.” Knowing that some items are usually never available, I asked him for one Kebbe. “We don’t have kebbe, I’ll give you a kafta sandwich like everybody else“.

The best part was yet to come: Ordering a Diet Pepsi. He takes two normal Pepsi from the fridge and puts them on the counter, waiting for me to pick them up saying, these are diet. “Diet, I ask?” “Yes, my friend these are diet, a special edition made just for us. They were out of diet cans, so they gave us regular instead. A blue can but a diet filling. It’s the same taste, drink them“. Watch the video and see for yourself… Too funny. 

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A customer, who was waiting ten minutes for his sandwich asked if the one being rolled was his. Continuing to roll and without even looking at him, he replied: “This sandwich is not good, I didn’t like it, I’ll give you another one. Ba3tik yalle ba3do, hayda mech 3ejebne.”

The shop has nothing extraordinary to highlight. The walls are covered in stainless steel, promotional stickers fill the doors and at the end the famous counter, to the right, is the list of sandwiches:
  • Chicken liver, lamb liver, Thal, Sanasel, Eggs and makanek, Eggs and soujok, Eggs and ham, Eggs and cream, Roast beef, chicken, stuffed vine leaves, soujok, makanek, kafta, basterma, tongue, labneh, chocolate… and more

Good to know:

  • You might say that the place is dirty: They serve fresh street food prepared by one man, in a single spot. Believe me, it’s cleaner than many hidden kitchens in fine restaurants around the city
  • Everything is rolled in Lebanese bread
  • The choices are many in the morning and declines as the day ends
  • Kafta is the best seller and a must try. Don’t miss the eggs with cream and the chocolate with banana and cream for dessert
  • Please leave your manners at home and go have fun. Visit Hajj Nasr for its simplicity and authenticity. Sandwiches of love, passion and dedication
  • Expect to be shouted with oil: All sandwiches are extremely oily. Better keep a wet wipes underhand
I ordered:
  • Roast-beef sandwich: A simple sandwich. Roast beef slices, tomatoes, pickles and mustard. Simple and tasty.
  • Soujok: Soujok is unique around here. A spread of soujok covered with pickles, tomatoes, and garlic paste with an overdose of spices that will burn your lips. A must try
  • Kafta: The kafta is produced in a special way. A large container of kafta is always kept handy where Hanna grabs a chunk to spread it in the double layer of bread. It then enters a toaster, as is, to be cooked and toasted. Few minutes later, mayonnaise, tomato and pickles are added before rolling the sandwich and delivering it to the customer. This sandwich’s taste is unique reflecting what real street food it is. But for me it’s too fatty, too oily and too spicy…
  • Chicken liver: Inside soft and tender bread, chicken liver is combined with some tomatoes, pickles and coupled with a spread of garlic flavored mayonnaise. Moist and tender, this sandwich is devoured in few bites while craving for more
  • Chocolate, banana, and cream: If you think that you’re done, the chocolate sandwich will open your appetite again for a new round of sandwiches. Chocolate spread, whipped cream and soft bananas wrapped in Lebanese bread. Again, its the simplicity will make you fall in love with what you eat.

The sandwiches are extraordinary and unique is every sense: Yes they are fatty, oily, too spicy and unevenly wrapped, but it’s the simplicity and love felt in every bite is worth trying for only 3,000L.L/piece.

Don’t expect super cleanliness, this place is a mess, and honestly nobody cares. Hundreds of thousands of people have eaten and enjoyed this place for decades. Politicians, bankers, taxi drivers, army officers… In here, all are equal. I’ll come again for sure.

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While waiting, I enjoyed listening to Hanna – if this is his name- welcoming his guests with a unique vocabulary:
  • Isteze, keef fine se3dak?
  • Bi2amrak Ana!
  • Hadde m3allemna!
  • 3tine 5000L.L
  • Kafta men 3aineyye
  • Be3tezer 3a te2khir m3alme
  • Thank you m3alme
  • Merci beaucoup
  • Khod hay sandwiche 3tiya la yalle warak
  • Alla yred 3anne, menkon

One customer came back an hour after for more sandwiches. Not too happy to see him again he asked:”Dakhlak ma akalet 3aboukra enta? Khlosna, sandwich wa7ad bi 2addik.” Yes, the policy is one sandwich per person. Don’t dream of eating two kafta for example, others have the right to eat as well.

To answer the main and most important question, Hajj Nasr is not closing down anymore, not for now at least. The project of demolishing the building has stopped, so Hajj decided to stay here longer. 33 years in the making and maybe an additional 10, this man is full of energy and dedication. Lebanon’s history can be written in this small eatery.
I enjoyed my second visit and am sure that you’ll do so as well. I would love to hear your experiences.
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Bliss Street: A Rich Street that Should Be Alive at All Times…

March 28, 2014, 1:33 am
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Visiting Bliss on a Saturday night, I was amazed to find a street that was fast asleep. Understandable since it’s packed with students all day… but why not have it more active all the time, day and night and weekends. It’s an amazing street where a lot of history hides behind every stone and every corner… Why should it only be a university street? Dozens of restaurants are lined up one next to the other waiting to welcome Lebanon’s youth. Let’s make a change…

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Bliss Street, or Rue Bliss, is one of the principal streets of Hamra area, which is within the Ras Beirut District of Beirut. The street, which is parallel to Hamra Street, runs east-west, connecting with Rue Clémenceau on the east and ending at Avenue General Charles de Gaulle that runs along the coast of the Mediterranean. The street is named after Dr. Daniel Bliss, an American missionary who founded the American University of Beirut. Prior to the mid-1960s, the tram passed along Bliss Street and stopped in front of AUB’s Main Gate and Faysal’s restaurant.

Bliss Street is bordered on one side by the historic campus of AUB and on the other side it is lined with many historical and commercial buildings that house cafes, restaurants, pubs as well as bookstores. Bliss Street has one of the largest concentration of restaurants in Beirut, such as Zaatar W Zeit, Mc Donald’s and Bliss House, that cater to the university students who hang out on the street.

Let’s plan a week-end revival of Bliss street:

  • Bliss should be the street of all students, not only the AUB ones
  • Let’s imagine a pedestrian street every weekend where youngsters, teenagers and university students can meet
  • A street revived with the new generation
  • Eat on Bliss street and continue dancing in Makdessi street
  • The street can be rented with shops, cupcakes parlors, ice cream dispensers… Just fun

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If you’ve been away from this area for sometime, let me remind you of the food venues:

  • Charlie’s HotDog
  • Zaatar W Zeit
  • Prime on Bliss (Cinema, Lounge, Sushi)
  • Urbanista: Food, coffee & people
  • Food 101: The faculty food and art
  • Tonino: Crepes and Waffles
  • Pappa Roti
  • Bliss: BBQ, Juices, Ice Cream
  • National Bakeries
  • Comsi Comsaj
  • University Sage
  • University Crepy
  • Mc Donald’s
  • Kababji
  • Dunkin’ Donuts
  • Le Sam: Tasty Diner
  • Universal Snack
  • Doner Kabab
  • Shawarma Al Tayeb
  • Malak el Tawouk
  • KFC
  • PHD by Pizza Hut
  • Burger King
  • Dip n Dip: Chocolate sweets and coffee house
  • Al Kahwa
  • Domino’s Pizza
  • Friitz: Belgium Fries

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So, will Bliss be making a comeback some time soon?

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Tosta Mista: Lisbon’s Famous Street Food at Jürgen’s, Bairro Alto

April 8, 2014, 2:38 am
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Walking through the tight streets of Bairro Alto, Hani a friend of ours who lived here for six months, was showing us around Lisbon’s nightlife district.  A few beers later, I asked him to take us somewhere where we can eat something unique and different. We then landed at Jurgen’s… “Have you tasted the local street food sandwich” he asks?
I knew he was about to introduce me to a one-of-a-kind creation.
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Jurgen’s, one of the many bars on the street, serves the Tosta. Two kinds of tasty toasted sandwiches filled with great ingredients, a bit fatty yet perfect after a few drinks…

“Tosta Mista is the local kebab,” as my Lebanese friend, Hani, who lived here for six months, calls it…

Simple, yet tasty and mouthwatering…

The Tosta Mista: Is simply a ham and cheese sandwich which is toasted for five minutes in this industrial toaster they have then buttered up meticulously and seasoned with oregano. It’s simply awesome. The quality of the bread was great and crunches in style under your teeth while the ham and cheese deliver their flavors. The ham tastes amazingly premium in quality, while the white cheese fills the many tiny holes of the bread… I can still taste it now. To add more flavor and interesting aromas, the butter added on top gives the sandwich a shiny mouthwatering look and feel.

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Hani then suggested we tried the chicken version of it, yet warns me that it is full of garlic. Tosta Frango is the chicken sandwich which has the same shape but more and richer flavors. A chicken purée is prepared in advance with a mix of pepper, salt, onions, mayonnaise and garlic paste. The mix is spread in the sandwich, toasted, buttered, covered with oregano and served. The garlic smell made me stop breathing for a second… I felt like dying! It was an adventure and surely a daring one…

The garlic used is a premiere for me: A strong aromatic garlic sauce that adds a unique taste to the sandwich. The minute I tried it, all my five senses were activated. It was so good, I devoured it in seconds knowing that I was going to have a rough night due to my garlic intolerance… Night came and then then morning… and I can safely tell you I slept like a baby… and felt no aches. Wow, that’s a first…

I loved my dinner. What looks like a simple TV dinner prepared at home was so tasty and different that I’m planning on trying to make it here… Ask around, and give it a try.
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Minis: One Bite Leads to a Whole New Sandwich

April 19, 2014, 12:47 am
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Meeting up with some friends who live near American University of Beirut, we headed down to Minis, a fresh new diner covered in red and yellow – two of NGNO’s favorite colors. As the name suggests, Minis is a concept that serves mini sandwiches. You can enjoy more than 59 different sandwiches in a fun and colorful atmosphere.

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As we walked in, we were welcomed by one of the owners who enthusiastically walked us through the concept. The first impression was great.

The place described:

  • Welcome: You’ll see a red door and red signboard that light up the streets
  • An attractive yellow painted wall filled with decorative items on your left will cheer you up instantly
  • On your right you will find a grey painted wall with more decorative items
  • The big red bus which hosts the kitchen and cashier is the star item in this place
  • Facing the entrance towards the end of the place you’ll find a large poster of the London life, a phone cabin and some street action
  • A variety of high and low wood tables fill the space. Colorful stools and chairs are placed around them. Three rectangular tables inside can welcome you for a fun experience, while the high tables are ready to welcome those in a hurry…
  • Grey tiles cover the floor

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The menu:

  • Classic Sandwiches
  • Premium Sandwiches
  • Light Sandwiches
  • Sweet Sandwiches
  • Beverages
  • Sides
  • Milkshakes

At the bottom of the menu you’ll find a choice of three meals, each containing four sandwiches: the veggie, the light and the signature, or go for five and get some complementary homemade chips.

The concept:

  • Order any sandwich you like and pay between 1,000L.L and 4,000L.L for each depending on its filling
  • Choose one of the preset meals priced at 7,500L.L, 9,500L.L or 11,500L.L
  • Buy five and have enjoy their homemade chips free of charge
The bell rang, our sandwiches were ready, it was time to eat.
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The sandwiches were exquisite. Imagine eating and enjoying a variety of different sandwiches each filled with different ingredients. I enjoyed one filled with tomato paste which felt like pizza, followed by halloumi in brown bread, then a caramelized steak sandwich with mustard sauce and soft caramelized onions and then another filled with fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes…and….

I may not be able to go extensively into the details of each sandwich, but I can tell you that each one was special and rich in taste.

You start by enjoying the golden color of a small bun … followed by the sound of a slight crunch just before your taste buds start playing it’s role… Inside is a generous portion of rich and fresh ingredients that can be enjoyed on an average of four bites each… The second you finish you’re automatically inclined to pick the second, third and fourth…

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The pluses:
  • All sandwiches are tasty
  • The buns are fresh and crunchy
  • I loved the idea of serving Pepsi mini cans – fits the concept perfectly
The minuses:
  • Small flags should be placed on every sandwich. This way we know what we’re eating. These flags are often used with small burger bites and they work perfectly
  • It’s too hot inside: please put on the Air Conditioning

Despite the fact that I was full (A long day of tasting) I couldn’t but taste five of the 11 sandwiches we ordered. They were really good.

I loved the concept and I loved the food. I surely encourage you to try it.
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Street Food Union: Soho, London

April 28, 2014, 6:10 am
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One of London’s newest street food markets is on Rupert St in Soho, between Shaftesbury Avenue and Berwick St. On Fridays and Saturdays, street food traders line the whole area, offering a large selection of local and international creations from meat, poultry, burgers, chorizo, waffles, crab, seafood, cheese, bacon and cakes.

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You cannot miss this market where colorful kiosks occupies the middle of street, adding fun and action to the neighborhood. Red, yellow, green, white, brown and black tents, as well as one stainless steel caravan, welcome you from 11am until 6pm in the evening, just before sunset.

A pure coincidence led us here and despite the fact that we had just eaten breakfast, I couldn’t help but taste some of the Street Food Union’s specialties.

Handled by a young crowd, each stand has one or two people running it and serving their clientele with a smile. They come at 10am, start preparing before the big opening that happens some time between 11 and 12, depending on the menu. I remember standing lusting over a pork shoulder that seemed to take forever to cook.

The day we visited, 14 kiosks were grilling and preparing wonderful food, perfuming central London with their aromas.

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The Food Kiosks:

  • Somboon Thai food
  • Freebies Burritos
  • Dixie Soul Food Union
  • The Red Gingham Bakery
  • The Burger Shop
  • Sambal Shiok
  • London Cheese Mongers
  • The Crabbieshack
  • Spanish Lab
  • Rare Street
  • Bad Brownie
  • Yogiyo Korean Street Kitchen
  • Pyrlandia or Potato Land, The Polish Street Food
  • The Panini Shop
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We stopped at the Polish guys ” Pyrlandia or Potato Land, The Polish Street Food” and asked for the sausage kebab with potatoes for £5. We also tasted some Polish cabbage called bigos, it was very good indeed.

Bigos, known as a hunter’s stew, is a traditional meat and cabbage stew typical of Polish, Lithuanian, Belarusians and Ukrainian cuisine, and is a Polish national dish. Typical ingredients include white cabbage, sauerkraut, various cuts of meat and sausages, often whole or puréed tomatoes, honey and mushrooms. The meats may include pork (often smoked), ham, bacon, sausage, veal, beef, and, as bigos is considered a hunter’s stew, venison, rabbit, or other game; leftover cuts find their way into the pot as well. It may be seasoned with pepper, caraway, juniper berries, bay leaf, marjoram, pimento, dried or smoked plums, and other ingredients. The kebab mix can be enjoyed with bread or potatoes, a rich mix of a hundred flavors.
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We continued with a cheese sandwich at London Cheese Mongers using Montgomery cheddar on cathedral oath bread for £4.50. Simply toasted, then filled with chopped onions and it was good to go. The process takes a bit of time as the cook waits to hear the cheese melting and grilling before going it. It’s a connoisseur’s sandwich after all.

Crunchy bread filled with fat from the melting cheese and the onions, which add some flavors, it was incredible. Cheddar cheese is a relatively hard, pale-yellow-to-off-white, sometimes “sharp” acidic-tasting, natural cheese. Originating in the English village of Cheddar in Somerset. This cheese is very fatty and oily.

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The capital’s street food scene is buzzing right now. Weekend food markets are taking over the city, serving tasty sandwiches to be enjoyed on the run. I’ve been to “The Real Food Market” as well as “The Borough Market” and now “The Street Food Union” and each time is a new discovery that educates my taste buds.

Open: Friday & Saturday 11am–6pm
Address: Rupert St, W1
Transport: Piccadilly Circus tube

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Street Food at The Broadway Market, London

May 2, 2014, 8:40 am
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I could honestly spend my life discovering food markets around the world and London has a bunch of them that are really interesting. Some people like to go to museums, while others prefer nature walks, for me, discovering a market combines all the pleasures a trip can give you.

At a market, you can meet people, talk with the locals, feel the country’s vibe, eat and fill your brain with a rich know how about the country’s culture and the neighborhood’s feel.

On Saturdays, Broadway Market is a kaleidoscope of tastes and cultures: stalls, shops, pubs, restaurants and cafes offer up some of the best food and most original clothing in London. All of this is crammed into a little East End street between the Regent’s Canal and London Fields.

Some come for organic meat, fruit and vegetables or fresh fish, smoked salmon and oysters, delicious bread, cakes or cheese. Others scour the clothes racks for vintage bargains – then head to the lingerie stall for something small and expensive to wear beneath.

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But the true beauty of Broadway is that you can also shop for top-quality food at prices that are as good, or better, than the supermarkets. Perhaps that is why over 90 percent of the people you see on at the market live nearby and walk or cycle there, returning week after week for their regular shopping. The extra space in the schoolyard at London Fields gives parents room to relax, and children a safe place to play.

We entered The Broadway Market from the back, which turned out to be a good thing as the food shops are located at the market’s extremities. It was 11 o’clock and the smells of grilling and fat burning were taking over the whole area. As you walk in the market, your five senses are activated. Sounds of grilling, smells of frying, beautiful colors and other things to satisfy all your cravings surround you at all times.

Interacting with the market community is just fun. I spent three hours and could have stayed for longer. Some people are tasting, while others are buying, look at woman bargaining or a father running after his kids, the ambiance is so fun and carefree. Two spots in the middle of the long alley are occupied by some musicians who play one after the other, adding the positivity that fills the place.

The Broadway Market is simply fun. Colorful tents occupy the street that is around a hundred meters, long while the shops on both sides stay open welcoming guests. In here, you can buy a great variety of food from a pound to £5. Tasty, food and affordable.

The food shops and cantinas:

  • Organic Eggs and Meat Caravan
  • Climpson & Sons Coffee Roasters
  • German Deli: Sausages and Nubknacker
  • The Fresh Orange Juice and Vegetable Stand
  • PHO, Imperial Pork Barbecue
  • Violet Cupcakes and Cookies
  • Fun and Founder Salmon Bagels
  • Roast Dog: Spit Roast Porchetta
  • Artisan Foods Bread
  • La Tua Pasta
  • Deeney’s Toasties
  • Newton and Pott Chutneys
  • Santos and Santos Spanish Artisan Foods
  • The London Marshmallow Factory
  • Levain Bakery, Big Bread Buns
  • Hansen and Lydersen Smoked Salmon
  • The Ginger Beer Engine
  • Downland Product, Free Range Beef Chicken Pork and Lamb
  • Danilo Manco Olive Oil
  • The Olives Trading
  • Degustibus, Bread Danish Pastry and Bagels
  • Wild Beef, From the Farm Products
  • Popina, Food Artistry From the Soul
  • Cocoandme.com, Cakes and Cookies
  • The Cheese Shop
  • Little Francesca, Fruits and Juices
  • Tony’s Special Juice Mixes
  • Alice’s Bakery Mini Macaroons
  • The Fish Market
  • Vegetables and Fruits
  • HS Bourne, Cheese Makers Since 1750
  • The Cinnamon Tree Bakery
  • Zakuski London, Eastern European and Middle Eastern Food
  • The Veggie Table, Vegetable Burgers
  • The Metro Cafe
  • Romeo Hone, Delicatessen from Dulwich Village
  • Fudge
  • The Pie Cart
  • Jaz and Juls, Hot Chocolate and Marshmallows
  • Crepe Place
  • Arabica Food and Spice Company: Falafel and Baklava
  • Spinach and Agurshi: The Ghanaian Food Company
  • Nana Fanny: Hot Salt Beef Sandwiches and Bagels
  • Gujarati Rasoi, Traditional Indian Food
  • Frindish and Goode, Delicacies
  • Finest Fayre: Scotch Eggs
  • Meringue Girls, Meringue Kisses
  • The Gay Farmer, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • Florid Foods, the Gluten Free Choice
  • Isle of Wight Tomatoes
  • Chegworth Valley, Fresh Juices
  • Sporeboys, Mushrooms
  • Creole Kitchen, Cooked Meat with Rice
  • Italian Cheeses
  • Northfield Farms, Award Winning Meats
  • St. John & Dolly Smith’s Chutneys
  • Zardosht, Personally Inspired Cooking
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I couldn’t try everything, I but chose come things I liked or that looked tasty. I wanted to confirm that London had good sausages, that salmon and a bagel are a perfect combination, a ginger beer intrigued me, they say Violet has the best cakes ever, I wanted a fresh juice to boost my energy, a crepe from the French guy, I wanted to try a falafel by Ashraf, cakes from the Cinnamon Tree Bakery, Meringue Girls deserves an applause for their premium creations and a burger, street food style.

Today’s tastings and mouthwatering discoveries:

  • Fun and Founder serve up tasty salmon bagels for only £2.50. Inside a pleasantly chewy bagel, New York style, is a generous quantity of smoked salmon that’s of very good quality. You might think street food is cheap, but it’s often not. This bagel is a fine and tasty creation. Add to that the cream cheese, some fresh rocket leaves, a hint of lemon and enjoy. A starter to open up my appetite and it made a great fist impression.

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  • Violet, the cupcake and cake shop is known for offering great, creamy caramel and a hint of delicacies, and people are right. Violet’s desserts are awesome. I had a chocolate and marshmallow Whoopsie pie for £3, as well as a Violet chocolate and salt caramel layer cake for £3.50; a rich muffin dough that’s so airy and light with intense dark chocolate filled with a marshmallow cream. The cupcake is cut in half and filled from its middle to avoid too much sillage. An open cupcake filled in the middle with salted caramel cream. Dark chocolate, juicy fillingsalt to end it all. Simply, wow!

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  • Newton & Pott create handmade chutneys and jams. I tried the pear and lavender and decided to buy one jar of each. Sold for only £4 and £5, those chutneys are to die for. Imagine them with a nice steak, a tasty chicken or inside a burger to replace ketchup and mustard.

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  • The German Deli, managed by two youngsters, was slowly grilling long, German sausage after long, German sausage. I felt like supporting them and I’m glad I did. A white sausage, perfectly grilled and covered with Mustard, ketchup and German cabbage salad for only £4.50. A premium quality sausage with a thick crunchy outer layer and a soft body. I loved it so much that I threw the hard bread away and enjoyed the dog by itself. Combining a hot dog with a cold cabbage salad is a success. Loved it.

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  • Ginger Beer: Good food and now, why not enjoy some drinks? Funny enough, an unappealing stand caught my attention. I wanted to see what the guy behind the draft machine was offering…Homemade ginger beer. Yes ginger beer, that’s partly fermented, with less than 1% alcohol level. This is a completely different recipe and is nothing like the beer you know. Fermented using sugar and ginger and no barley, I’m not sure it can considered an alcoholic drink for grow ups. A lightly sparkling drink, yellow in color, with astrong ginger taste and an after tickle that caresses your throat. I personally loved it and paid £1.50 for a cup, which I thought that was reasonable.

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  • Crepe Suzette: Managed by a French guy who spoke way too much, I expected to eat something good. The crepe is nothing like the ones I have enjoyed in Paris and way too expensive for what it is. The Nutella banana crepe was too chewy, and too small for the price. £4 for that little bite? Not recommended.

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  • Next to the Crepe stand was a Lebanese guy rolling Lebanese bread sandwiches. I was surely not craving for a Lebanese sandwich in London, but to not support the guy and see the difference between our local version and theirs just seemed wrong. The Falafel sandwich contained: hummus, cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley, beetroot, pickles, falafel, tarator and mint. A nice sandwich, generously filled, crunchy vegetables, fresh and tasty but the falafel were a bit too oily. I think that was because of the hurry in which they’re made. If we want to compare it with the Lebanese version, it wasn’t even close to that. A falafel sandwich, yes, but different on all aspects.

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  • Finest Fayre: These Scotch eggs didn’t look appetizing to me and didn’t I feel like having one, but trying a local dish was important. Those Scotch eggs are balls of food. A ball of bread crumbs, pork meat and an egg in the middle. The ball is cut in half and served in a paper bag so it’s easier to bite into. Soft egg, ground pork and bread, all fried… No, not a thing I’ll ever order again.

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  • Meringue kisses produced by The Meringue Girls: four friends, four girls, created the concept of innovating with meringue flavors. Drops or, kisses, meringue bites of all the colors, each with a different flavor and taste. Buy one for £1 or 9 for £4, those meringues are worth it. A hard shell meringue, with a moist interior with different flavors of which I tried orange, lavender, pistachio with rose water and gin and tonic. Yum! It’s not so easy to produce a successful meringue without it smelling of egg, but the girls do that perfectly well. Full of flavor, the bites are excellent.

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  • Floris Foods: Floris Food produces homemade, gluten free food, and mouthwatering desserts that are kind of healthy. When things are “free” of something, the taste changes drastically so I thought, why not try Floris’ produces? A homemade Oreo for £1.50 is much, too much. That’s a tiny small bite, after all despite the fact that I liked it. A crunchy yet moist cookie filled with a soft cream. This cookie is different from the commercial ones; it had a softer touch and smoother feel but the exact same taste.

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  • So, we’ve eaten so much and yet no burger so far and I wanted to have the burger I had been craving for since The Soho Food Market. I stopped at Northfield Farms stand, claiming to sell award winning meats for £5 each. Meat, cheese, salad, bacon and tomato salsa served in a tender bun. I personally found this sandwich way too salty and the meat too fatty. Who said street food should be bad? I personally wasn’t impressed.

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  • This was my best and favorite discovery today: The Cinnamon Tree Bakery’s white chocolate and sea salt cookie for £1.75. I would have paid more to try this. A rich English cookie that gives out a dozen flavors… A vanilla sweet cookie: caramel oats, packed with white chocolate and topped with a light sprinkle of Maldon sea salt. An incredible innovation. A perfect cookie and a strong salty finish, this thing is nothing like your average salted caramel things, but is a real innovation. This guy combined salt and sweet into innovative bites that really put a smile on my face. A strong salty aftertaste that sticks to your lips; don’t forget to lick the. Another thing I couldn’t but buy is the guy’s 70% Belgian dark chocolate brownie with extra dark and white chocolate chips. Ouf! Simply ouf! Breathtaking.

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  • Three hours already, too much food and to end it up why not a freshly squeezed drink? Francesca Isabella, Giorgio and Little Jackie’s Juice Bar offers a selection of freshly squeezed juices and some special selections depending on the day. On the menu was a carrot, orange, beetroot and ginger juice for £2.50. Fresh flavors and the ginger that tickles at the end; I loved its controlled sweetness. Others are sweeter, banana, orange and strawberry for £2.50. I tried the banana: a sweeter, creamier with a stronger banana flavor that takes over. Both drinks were excellent. It’s about combining the proper juices in the adequate dosage and Giorgio, helped by his son, succeeds.

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A great day I enjoyed more than any other thing I could have done in the British capital. Street food markets are my hobby, my passion and I’m willing to visit the world’s best.

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Story Deli: Trying is Believing – Simply the Best Pizza

May 3, 2014, 3:00 am
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After wrapping up the Chowzter Awards, I thought why not go and try the 2013 winner and check it out for myself…Story Deli, down in a small alley of London, located at 123 Bethnal Green Road, has a selection of interesting pizzas they say. Knowing me, I have to have first hand experience to understand why Story Deli the award.  Story Deli happened to be close by and believe me what I tell you… the experience was the best way to end this trip to London in style.

Of course I checked it out online – nice website, nice photos… Before getting there, I imagined to reach a place where hundreds of people are waiting in line for a chance to try it…

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On our way we asked a few people if they knew where “Story Deli” was… Finally, a woman with a smile on her face looked at me saying, “It’s on this street, just follow the smell”.

We reached a calm place – there was no sign, no lights – only a paper on the door asking you to knock. I pushed the door to discover what looks like a kind of kitchen, a place that doesn’t look as a restaurant. It was dark, candle lit and three long wooden tables take refuge. Three long wooden tables on which a set of knives, forks, napkins and olive oil bottles are posed.

Still not realizing what’s happening I lifted up my eyes from the iPad to discover the little details that constitute the place. A long wall of white fabrics separates the dining space from the kitchen and still calm takes over… Pure silence in a purity of white.

Under the high white ceiling, a square restaurant oozes positive vibes, served by a single woman who barely speaks English. A paper menu, a table shared by many, sounds of the pizza oven and the candles that give some light, just for you to read the menu. I knew that food was going to be great, I just felt it.

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We ordered:
  • Fico: Goat’s cheese, fig and olive tapenade, fresh red onion, capers, thyme and Parma ham served with a big heap of rocket, freshly grated Parmesan, a little roasted red pepper, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

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  • Ham, Spinach and Gorgonzola: Prosciutto cotto, baby spinach, garlic, Gorgonzola, olives, mascarpone and a pinch of nutmeg served with freshly grated Parmesan, a little roasted red pepper, olive oil and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

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  • Dora Romero: Chorizo, smashed tomatoes, tomato passata, fresh red onions, mascarpone, rosemary oil, basil pesto and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

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  • Spinach, Spicy Sausage and Egg: Baby spinach, garlic, spicy sausage, egg, Parmesan, of pinch of nutmeg and a little crushed birds eye chilli served with freshly grated Parmesan, olive oil and sweet chilli sauce

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I was so amazed by the taste of this pizza and how they are freshly made and presented, that I asked to go in the kitchen and check closely how things are done. The welcoming staff told me a couple stories about the concept, created by a man called Lee who invented a dough of flour, water and salt mastering the equilibrium of the three ingredients without the use of yeast. They do not consider themselves as Italian pizza creators but simply a different pizza place.

The pizzas are simply unique on all levels. Every ingredient is felt richly and purely without covering the other. An olive oil like no other, tomatoes treated differently, peppers roasted with care, rocket leaves that cut so easily, Parma that’s full of taste, chili to add a hint of sweetness, cherry tomatoes cut in half and cooked on the dough and organic rockets that erupt flavor… Unbelievable mix of heavily ingredients created an unidentified pizza that is so orgasmic.

The pizza with an egg is outstanding. Am I expressing myself enough?  The chorizo pizza with all its ingredients is sweet and sour combined. Fico, with its figs and mountain of rockets is simply wow… I was there, after tasting four pizzas, and wishing I could eat more.

The best part is obviously the dough: A thin dough, thinner than a French crepe that’s constituted purely of flour, water and salt. The thin, transparent dough that’s so fresh and so crunchy reminded me of the Markouk bread we have back home. Despite its thinness, the dough isn’t even slacked by the hundred ingredients, soft in the middle and crunchy on the borders, it just makes you moan from joy.

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You know what, this is a pizza that will make me want to come to London again. This is a pizza I’m going to remember as being the best I’ve had to date. This is a marvelous jewel few masters know how to make.

Blending together all the flavors of the world, the owner deserves more than a simple award. 

Dessert? Why not? If the pizza is that good, how about the dessert? We were recommended the cheesecake served on a piece of wood. A small rectangle that made me tear. An extremely thin pastry dough -not the usual McVities biscuit – and a thick condensed cheese filling all topped with flour and watery cream. That’s heaven, simply heaven: Mamma Mia!

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I don’t only recommend the place but actually insist you try it. If you live in London, make it a point to visit this place this week, and if you’re not, then book the first ticket to the British capital. Yes, it is that good…

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Georges Massaad Zahle: Foul, Hommos, Balila and Fried Eggs

May 20, 2014, 10:00 pm
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I know, I should have been working on a Monday morning instead of touring around… Driven by passion, on this beautiful Monday morning I decided to give Zahle a visit. I’m new to the area so following some friends recommendations I landed at Georges Massaad for a foul and hummus breakfast. I have been told that there is no great mankoushe in the capital of the bekaa.
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Georges Massaad is located on the main Zahle highway, few meters after the Saraya. Pass the Saraya and land in front of a shop opened back in the fiftees.
A guy approached me and asked what would I like to have. Not having the time to finish, he was shouted in from behind by Mr. Fouad, the original owner’s son: “on the other table there are three persons, why did you give them only two forks?”. Scared, the man ran to prove that he delivered two forks then came back for the order.
Hummus, balila, fool, eggs and a plate of vegetables; the guy thought that my family was following. I simply told him that I like to taste everything.
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Few minutes after ordering, I received a plate of hummus, decorated with hot chickpeas in its center, a plate of hot foul with olive oil, a plate of balila and simple scrambled eggs.
A quick reminder:
  • Ful medames is an Egyptian/Sudanese dish of cooked and mashed fava beans served with vegetable oil, cumin and optionally with chopped parsley, onion, garlic, and lemon juice. A staple meal in Egypt and Sudan, it is popular in the cuisines of the Levant, Somalia, Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia and Saudi Arabia.
  • Balila or Msabbaha: Msabbaha is a variation of hummus popular in the Levant. The main difference between msabbaha and hummus is the texture. In contrast with hummus, the chickpeas here remain whole. Like hummus, it is eaten with fresh pita bread. The base of the dish is balila: warm cooked chickpeas in their own water with a little added cumin, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Pine nuts fried in olive oil or samneh (clarified butter) are sometimes poured over the balila. Other ingredients include tahini and minced garlic.
  • Hummus: is a Middle Eastern and Arabic food dip or spread made from cooked, mashed chickpeas blended with tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and garlic. Today, it is popular throughout the Middle East (including Turkey), North Africa (including Morocco), and in Middle Eastern cuisine around the globe.
This is not going to be the lightest of breakfasts…
So let’s eat:
The humms is simply authentic, tasty and full of flavor. Adding to that the hot chickpeas that melt under your teeth like butter. The balila looks appetizing and was served so hot that it was bubbling on the table in front me. I’m not going to pretend that I’m a balila expert but I can safely say that I’ve eaten something exceptional. So juicy, so tender, so rich with premium ingredients and perfect seasoning.
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Foul is as good as the rest. Mixed with some chickpeas, olive oil and lemon, every bite is enjoyable to the max. I was enjoying this moment so much, without garlic, fresh crunchy vegetables and a cup of tea.
All was very tasty coupled with a tender bread baked the same morning. The eggs are as good as they should be, homemade, home style and no sophistication. Served in a round plate is a circle of white and yellow mix. Sparkle on some salt and pepper, throw a piece of bread, take it all between your fingers and stuff it up your mouth. Enjoy it as you like, the village way, since your manners were left in beirut.
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I was happy, sitting in the corner of this refurbished restaurant where dark wood, old mosaic tiles and marble smooth your senses.
I was enjoying the moment when I heard someone on the table next to me ordering raw food. It was only 10am and people were coming here to eat raw meat, raw liver and kafta. I waited to have a look at the mix.
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A tasty breakfast in a funky spirit, this place is interesting to visit if you want to start your day in style. L.L5,000 a plate, the math is simple. I paid L.L22,000 for the four plates and tea, a price that can be shared by at least three friends. Located few meters away from Le Salon des Familles, continue your journey by buying a stock for Beirut.
Georges Massaad: +961-8-801037
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Kanafanji: Knefeh has a New Address

May 24, 2014, 12:20 am
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Kababji, Shawarmanji, maybe soon enough we’ll be hearing about about Burgarji… But for now a new edition to the “ji” list is Kanafanji. This new kenafe ‘specialist’ is located in the heart of Mar Mikhael, one of Beirut’s most popular spots hosting a huge number of restaurants, bars as well as innovative concepts like this one…. After a night out partying or maybe on your way back from work, I suggest you stop by Kanafanji and try some innovative bites of kanafe, knefe or kenafe… However way you write it, it’s still the same favorite Lebanese breakfast indulgence.

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Kanafanji cannot be missed. A nice wood facade with Kanafanji logo nicely designed in green and orange will definitely grab your attention on Mar Mikhael. A few meters before reaching the Adlieh road, the house of Kanafa, located in Al Mandaloun club building, welcomes you 24hours a day, all week long for quench any sweet cravings.
After asking the manager a few questions, I quickly understood that Kanafanji is planning to revolutionize the breakfast industry in Lebanon, while offering a new approach to the way we enjoy the traditional knefe – imagine a knefe with chocolate chip, and another with Hershey chocolate bits and a large selection off dips and sauces. “Why eat a crepe with different fillings and sauces… and not a knefe?”
The entry level knefe is exactly like the others in town and costs LBP5,000. You can ask for more and order the Kanafanji special for LBP8,000 or the extra for LBP9,000.
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Let’s understand the concept first:
  • Kanafanji promises to offer knefe specialties; a process under development
  • The Kanafa is priced at LBP5,000 for a sandwich of 180grams. The platter containing 260grams is for LBP7,000.
  • Open 24hours, you can enjoy this Lebanese favorite dessert all day long
  • A coffee shop and dessert parlor, try their selection of coffee or cakes all with a Lebanese approach

We reached Kanafanji, opened the glass door and entered a small shop where a large tray of Kanafa is on display. To change from the ones we know and maybe minimizing space, the Kanafa cooking tray used here is rectangular. To the left is a fridge displaying a selection of cakes.

The place:
  • Kanafanji is a small cozy place on a corner street
  • Simple wood, covers the walls and floor
  • A nice logo, simple and straight to the point attracts customers driving along the street
  • Green, yellow and brown are the three colors that represent the brand
  • The shop can welcome three guests at a time, three beautifully designed seating spots… but one chair
  • You’ll find a fridge and a Kanafa display and two staff members standing behind them

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The menu:
  • Kanafanji special
  • Maamoul bi achta
  • Maamoul bi joz
  • Nammoura
  • Nammoura joz el hind
  • Nammoura bel mkassarat
  • Nammoura bi ashta
  • Sfouf
  • Sfouf bi mkassarat
  • Sfouf bi Laktin
One knefe please: The bun, a 12 centimeter Kaaka is first opened and filled with sugar syrup which is absorbed by the bread. The excesses is then removed and a large piece of kanafa is stuffed inside. They put in one large piece and not two small squares which make the sandwich easy to eat without dripping. It is then wrapped in aluminium foil and served. You can ask for it as a takeaway, where you’ll get it in a hamburger-like carton box for easy transportation.
My first impression:
  • This version of the Kanafa is different. The cheese is lighter, melts more and feels less fatty
  • The Kanafa as is- in my opinion- needs more body and lacks consistency. One single kind of cheese is not what people expect from a Kanafa. When you eat that kind of dessert, you don’t think about your diet. The topping, the semolina dough - again in my opinion- is too thin. It’s not proportional to the thickness of the cheese. I’m not sure if the comparison is adequate but I felt like I was eating a cheese Mankoushe with added sugar syrup.
  • The bun on another hand is a bit chewy for this kind of dessert. It steals away from the enjoyment you would expect to feel from the filling. It feels like “Kaaka 3asrouniya” made smaller. I’ll personally work on that issue
  • Close your eyes and you’ll feel like you’re eating a sesame sandwich; too much sesame on the bun, way too much. It’s unpleasant to chew, unpleasant to feel and unpleasant to feel stuck between your teeth
The knefe is not bad, it’s actually good but it’s not extraordinary. When a place is single branded, you would expect it to offer magic… And that’s what I didn’t feel.
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I tried something different; I decided to go for the special plate. This way I could be more accurate with my opinion on the place. I tried the special plate is an Ashta Kanafa, served cold on a round plate and covered with fruits. Beautiful and mouthwatering, this is a dessert I recommend. Be prepared, that’s more of a portion for two persons.

A round, single portion ashta Kanafa surrounded with strawberries and covered with pineapple and kiwi slices. Imagine an exotic Kanafa with chocolate or caramel sauce on top. I personally loved it; although too sweet and too heavy for a single meal, but it’s a nice thing to try. Order it and share it among friends. For LBP9,000, be sure you’ll be getting your money’s worth. An interesting consistency, good thickness, and tasty flavor with rich ashta – you’ll enjoy.

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Ok, so what else can we try? Let’s try the maamoul and sfouf, I was curious to taste what individual portions taste like. Kanafanji is working on producing individual portions of Kanafa as well as our favorite desserts like maamoul and sfouf. The maamoul is rich with prominent walnut taste wrapped by a crunchy envelope but unfortunately feels dry. The first bite is enjoyable… The second is too much, the third is hard to swallow. Who created maamoul madd and added ashta to it,did that on purpose. I’ll personally make it juicier or serve it with a dip.

The sfouf is a big no. These are nothing close to sfouf. Dry, thick and hard to swallow, like a dry English cake. Sfoufs should be moist, sticky, juicy, and tender and melt under your palate. This recipe should be reconsidered.

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I liked: The individual portions of Kanafeh proposed in a plastic box and wrapped in carton. No cutting is needed and no filling. It is baked and ready to take away.
Let’s do this constructively and wish these guys a bright future… I believe in this brand and honestly believe that it can represent Lebanon abroad. Kanafanji can expand and become a drive-through concept, as well as a reference for an enjoyable breakfast. But before that many things have to be fixed:
  • Clean the place up, make it perfect and neat. It’s an upscale version of the street Kanafa after all. The first impression should be breathtaking while it’s not at the moment
  • Using rectangular trays is a good idea but they have to be smaller to fit in proportionally in your tiny shop. The presentation is unappealing
  • Remove those ugly nylon wrappings. The buns, the cakes and the Kanafa trays are wrapped in ugly and unprofessional nylon wrappings: It’s unacceptable and unappetizing
  • Being unique and new is something but changing the original taste is something else. I’m sure that the objective is to be healthier but unfortunately here, the taste has changed
  • Reduce the sesame seeds of the bun: Urgently
  • Since the place is now open, the chocolate sauce and other innovative ideas should be already on sale
Conclusion: I like the concept and some of the things they offer. I strongly believe that the brand has big potential for a bright future. It only needs to be looked at closer, more tasting and development with a closer eye to details.
I encourage you to try it. The originality is worth experiencing…
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Abou Fadi: Malak el Samke el Harra

May 26, 2014, 2:10 am
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On your way back from Tripoli towards Batroun, just a few meters after passing the Cheka intersection you’ll find Abou Fadi: Malak el Samke el Harra, where fish sandwiches are being served… although in this location for three years, Abou Fadi is a not new in the business. Dubbed the king of “Spicy Fish” Abu Fadi was originally based in Tripoli Mina, a family business established since 1973.
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We landed in front of a large place marked by a red sign on which “Abou Fadi Al Sayed, Malak el Samke el Harra” is written. A great first impression… someone opens the door for you and greets you with a smile.
I was not sure what to expect; A ‘samke harra’ sandwich? I was curious to know more. Abou Fadi serves fish related sandwiches. Choose your liking, pay for it, present the receipt at the counter and watch your sandwich freshly prepared in front of you. I then went directly for the cashier and asked her to give me their two best sandwiches. One grilled fish sandwich and another ‘samke harra’ (spicy fish) one.
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The menu is only based on seafood and a couple other things:
Spicy fish, grilled fish, grilled with coriander, samak bizri, octopus, shrimps, calamari, makanek, fries, chicken tawouk, chicken liver, salad and hummus.
Fore LBP5,000 each, you will get a sandwich that’s fulfilling and generously filled with fish, lettuce and tomatoes. A huge sandwich wrapped around an immense quantity of fish, a mountain of lettuce and a handful of tomatoes. For only LBP5,000 I discovered a sandwich that’s light, tasty and perfect for a lunch meal.
Folks in the city of Tripoli/Mina in Lebanon are well known for their seafood . And on top of the pyramid lays “Samke Harra.” Translated from Arabic, it simply means spicy fish.  This is a specialty dish where a lightly lemon-marinated fish is baked, then covered with a mouth-watering sauce made with Tahini paste (roasted sesame seeds), lemon juice, garlic and spices. For those who are not familiar with Tahini, it’s a paste made from crushing/blending roasted sesame seeds.
  • The grilled fish sandwich: Who cares if it’s fresh or frozen fish. It’s only LBP5,000 and it’s tasty. Inside a soft Lebanese bread is a layer of fish, another of lettuce and a third of tomatoes. Topping that is garlic sauce which I asked to be removed. A huge sandwich that’s so generously filled that its hard to wrap. Juicy fish, perfectly cleaned, fresh and crunchy vegetables and here you are eating something simple and enjoyable. I’ll come back for it.
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  • The Samke 7arra: This is the big thing; The spicy fish sandwich is excellent. We know it as being a sauce served with grilled fish but here things are different. A prepared mix of fish, tarator and spices which the owner himself fills in a sandwich then toasts for couple minutes. The journey starts by a crunchy feel followed by the richness of a generously filled sandwich where a dozen flavors, perfectly mixed together will put a smile on your face. I never imagined a Samke Harra sandwich, never imagined something like Abou Fadi even existed. To enjoy something other than a shawarma or the conventional meat sandwiches, this is a innovation you have to try. A juicy filling like a fish pâté, with some crunchy fresh lettuce and slices of  Lebanese tomatoes. Unfortunately for me, inside the mix was some hidden garlic but I couldn’t resist having some.
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I was happy to discover an address like this one. Today’s visit was quick, standing in front of the counter for a first discovery which I really enjoyed. I’ll surely be coming back for more choices, maybe the octopus or the shrimps sandwhiches… Or maybe the platter to check out what it looks like.
Traveling back to Beirut from Tripoli,  stop halfway for a tasty bite. Abou Fadi is easy to find.
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Afran el Sharek: Tripoli’s Local Kaak Provider

June 11, 2014, 9:45 pm
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Al_Sharek_Bakery_Tripoli14Up the street from Zakaria ice cream, which I believe is called Chare3 el Ramel, I came across, Afran el Share2  “الشرق”. The smell coming out of this bakery was mesmerizing… we found ourselves right in front of it. It may not be the finest of spaces displaying bread, but it is rather a factory »more...
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Akra Tripoli: Enjoying Foul The Old Fashioned Way

June 13, 2014, 1:00 am
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Akra_Foul_Hummos_Tripoli15Our Tripoli street tour started at Akra, a renowned foul and hummus place known as ‘the cave’. In the heart of the old souk, a few meters away from the clock, Akra is a wonderful place and I’m happy we came here. Foul, hommos madkouk, foul bi thini, hommos lahme, malizia and fatteh, everything is »more...
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Al Zahra, Tripoli: Sweet Delights Since 1930

June 13, 2014, 2:22 am
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Al_Zahra_Zakaria_Ice_Cream_Tripoli02Breakfast at Akra led us to a quick discovery before lunch. We were informed that the finest ice cream spot is located a hundred meters down the street, so we started walking. Al Zahra, Zakaria brothers located somewhere in the heart of Tripoli has been producing ice cream since 1930. I’m sorry but I can’t tell »more...
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Dabboussy Moghrabieh Sandwiches: An Ancient Inspiration in Tripoli

June 14, 2014, 2:30 am
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Dabboussi_Moghrabieh_Tripoli05My latest discovery is something unique to the city of Tripoli. We all know moghrabieh, but did you ever imagine it as a street food and not just any street food, but as a sandwich? Yes, in the heart of the old souks, built more than 900 years ago, is a small shop that has been »more...
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McDonald’s New McFlurry Mars Series; Now in Lebanon

June 24, 2014, 11:18 pm
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McDonald's McFlurry Dessert Ice Cream Twix Snickers Mars 4With the World Cup fiesta taking over the country, many restaurants and companies alike have launched special items, one of which is McDonald’s special edition McFlurry.   My story with McDonald’s started a long time ago when I asked the world to have a look at how the local franchise did not reflect the international »more...
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Salameh’s Sticky Treats on the Berdawni, Zahle

June 30, 2014, 1:10 pm
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Salameh_Semsmiyeh_Zahle_Berdawni_NGNO25Semsmiyeh, what else? Coming to Zahle and going back home with some Semsmieh is like visiting Batroun and enjoying their lemonade. Heading to Salameh Salameh was a must, where the third generation of artisans are making and selling these sweet treats up on the Berdawni. Al Berdawni, Zahle’s famous touristic hub has been known for »more...
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Mechtah Bou Elias: Zahle’s Famous Bread

July 3, 2014, 10:03 am
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Meshtah_Bou_Elias_Zahle_Bread03I’ve been to Zahle before, but I only had time to have breakfast at Massaad and buy some milk cookies. Coming back was a must. My second visit started with Furn Mar Elias, a well-known place in Zahle that produces something called the “Moshtah”. Furn Mar Elias has been open since 1962 and is run »more...
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Don Baker: Delicious Pizzas and Mouthwatering Crepes

July 15, 2014, 4:04 am
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Don_Baker_Badaro30Have you heard of Don Baker? No not that well known Irish blues musician, television personality, and actor from the 50′s, but the Don Baker, a new eatery in Badaro. I was passing by the area when I spotted an interesting logo that’s simple yet has a provincial to it feel. Nice I thought, so I »more...
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Subway: Why Lebanon Hasn’t Taken to Subway… I Like It

July 20, 2014, 2:20 am
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Subway_Sandwiches_NoGarlicNoOnions26I’m not sure why our country hasn’t taken to Subway. The restaurant’s food is fresh, fulfilling and relatively healthy, surely healthier then all other fast food ideas. My Subway story started back during my university years; a branch opened on the Zalka highway and I remember passing by every other day of the week to enjoy »more...
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